Alexander Megos

The Olympics are over for me. With a 9th place I'm the first one who didn't make finals. Frustration and disappointment are the first two words that come to mind when I think about my performance. And for now there is not much else to say.
At some point I'll probably write more about the whole process, my doubts about the Olympics and the format and the time in Japan itself. Good bye Japan. Thank you for all the support I received from friends, family and the community 🙏🏼. @patagonia_climb @petzl_official @tenayaclimbing @cafekraft_nuernberg @nikondach @frictionlabs @fazabrushes #stylefirst #carrotsforpower #9thplaceisthefirstlooser
Pics: @toksuede

a year ago

Ratstaman Vibrations - FA.
Already the first time I came to Ceüse back in 2014 I had a look at this route, but never decided to actually try. I got busy with Bibliographie in 2017, which took me a few seasons to finish.
In 2021 I gave Rastaman another go and climbed it in three parts on my second day, but didn't go back for it until three weeks ago.
Right after the World Cup in Chamonix I headed to Ceüse with @christoph_hanke, @chiarahanke and @janvirtphotography to properly try the route. After five days I got really close to doing it, but couldn't quite piece it together in the end. The World Cup in Briançon came as a welcomed break from hiking up the hill and after a week of competing and training I returned to Ceüse. First day back on the route felt really good and already on the second day of this trip I had the perfect send go!
Rastaman is one of those mythical routes for me. Bolted by @chris_sharma a while ago at one of the best crags in the world, tried by a few strong people, but not been done for many years.
For sure one of the best routes I've ever done or tried in the 9b range.
Thank you @christoph_hanke, @chiarahanke, @luisaflohe, @simon_weisser and @kaethe_atkins for the support and the belays. Thanks @janvirtphotography for the pictures and video (coming out at some point ;-). Thanks also @shawnraboutou for the sessions on the route! @patagonia_climb @petzl_official @tenayaclimbing @cafekraft_n

a year ago

Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn't mean you don't have a chance.

Yesterday evening, on my last day of the trip, it definitely wasn’t looking good after messing up the first (and only) try I wanted to do that day. I fell relatively low on the route though, so I decided to give it an infamous “one last go”.

I passed the crux in the middle of the route, and found myself on the poor rest before the final hard section. Twice prior to this burn I had fallen on the last hard move of the route, so I wasn’t feeling super confident. Nonetheless I started off after the rest with full pace and only briefly slowed down to adjust one hold and to get it perfectly. I passed my ‘trouble move’ seemingly effortlessly and despite being completely pumped out of my mind, I was able to pull off the sequence of the last four moves.

After clipping the anchor it seemed like all of the days of work I have put into the route were passing in front of my eyes. With approximately 60 climbing days over the past three years "Bibliographie" has been by far my longest project to date.

I know there are many speculations about the grade and I think grades are very subjective. My personal suggestion for the grade is 9c (5.15d). Considering the fact, that "Perfecto Mundo" (9b+) has taken me 16 days of effort, "Bibliographie" with around 60 days and more specific training felt a lot harder.
Of course, as the first ascensionist you don

a year ago